Starting seeds is easier than you may think:

Step 1
To sow the seeds, fill a flat with moist seed-starting medium. Level the medium and use a ruler or piece of lath to press shallow rows about 1/4 inch deep and 2 inches apart.
Step 2
Sprinkle seeds into the depressions. Space seeds about 1/2 inch apart. If planted too closely, the seedlings will be more difficult to separate at transplant time. Label each row to identify the variety planted.
Step 3
Once all rows are planted, gently scatter more of the seed-starting medium to cover the seeds (unless the packet specifies leaving seeds uncovered). Water the surface with a gentle mist and cover the flat with a plastic dome or sheet of clear plastic to maintain moisture.
Some seeds germinate best in cool soil, and others in warm; check the seed packet for temperature requirements. If the seeds demand warmth, place the flat near a heat vent or on an electric heat mat to warm the soil. Watch daily for emerging seedlings, and as soon as they appear, remove the plastic cover and move the flat to a sunny window or grow lights. At this point, many types of seedlings prefer cool growing temperatures around 65ºF.
Step 4
When seedlings have grown their second set of leaves, they are ready to be transplanted to individual containers. Use a chopstick or letter opener to lift and loosen the soil beneath a row of seedlings. Gently tug the seedlings apart. Hold the seedlings by their leaves instead of their stems, which are more easily damaged by rough handling. Don’t worry if some roots are torn in the process, or if most of the potting mix falls away from the roots.
Step 5
Add some potting mix to the bottom of a container (for the tomato seedlings shown, we’re using 3-inch-square pots). Center the seedling in the pot, then add more soil to fill.
Step 6
Press lightly to firm the soil around the roots.
Step 7
Using a rose on the watering can, soak thoroughly.
Seedlings grown in a mix that includes compost probably won’t require fertilizer. In compost-free mixes, feed the seedlings lightly every 2 or 3 weeks after moving them to individual pots. Johnson recommends liquid kelp and fish emulsion, mixed at half the recommended rate.
Starting about 2 weeks before you plan to transplant the seedlings into the garden, move them to a sheltered spot outdoors for a few hours at a time. This process, called hardening off, allows the seedlings to adjust gradually to outdoor conditions such as wind and sun. “Slow down on water to let them toughen up,” Johnson says. “Be careful not to put them in direct sunlight right away.” Gradually increase their time outdoors and light exposure.
Indoor seed starting requires the gardener to develop new skills, but in the end, it’s worth it. As Johnson says, “Gardening is more rewarding when you start from seeds.”

-Taken from www.organicgrdening.com

We are expecting a freeze tonight. Plans are to harvest all tomatoes, wrap them in newspaper and hold them in a cool dark room until they ripen. I will bring all my peppers in as they are subject to freezing as well.  I will be moving in all my small potted plants and getting covers into position for the evening. As soon as the temperature gets above freezing, I will remove the covers. Joseph will be dripping all the water lines over night, this should help us avoid a frozen water line and the moisture will give our plants a better chance to survive. Freezing weather harms some plants but cool weather crops like cabbage, kale and onions will be fine without covering them. The best part of a freeze is the bug population is greatly reduced...
-Judy

Due to an increase in diseases in the garden, we're adopting the policy below.  You can help by removing diseased leaves and plants as soon as you see them - bag them and remove from the garden.  Aphids can be treated with the insecticidal soap in the spray bottle in the water box.  On tomatoes, we've also seen dark spots on lower leave, indicating a viral or fungal infection.

Gardeners are responsible for removing diseased plants from the garden.  However, ACCG reserves the right to remove any or all parts of a diseased plant.  Notable diseases are powdery mildew on squash and cucumbers and Early Blight on tomatoes - all leaves and affected parts of the plants should be removed from the garden.  Insect infestations will be treated with appropriate methods and plants removed only if such treatment fails.

Attendance was strong for our annual fall planting meeting. We had a hands on demonstration of prepping our beds for planting.
1. Gardeners were asked to remove and store the plastic that was used for solarization from their beds.
2. Remove the water grid and pvc pipe covers (being careful not to disconnect or step on grid.
3. Remove any unwanted growth and remove from the garden.
4. Apply compost and turn it into the soil. Sprinkle bag of potash on top (do not mix in).
5. Replacing the water grids.
6. Plant seeds or transplants.
7. Always conserve water; however seeds & transplants will need to be hand watered for a few days till they either sprout or transplants are stable. Water cans are available in each water box.
8. Mulch as soon as possible making sure to cover the water grid with at least 1 to 2 inches of mulch. (remember do not mulch over freshly planted seeds) You may mulch around transplants.
    Judy showed everyone her method of planting a tomato transplant and a squash transplant. Tomatoes are planted deep with only the tip top green leaves showing and squash are planted shallower only covering the root system not the stem. Once you have finished transplanting water the transplants.
    I look forward to seeing what everyone is growing this season!

    Instructions:
     See bed 17 for an example



1. Remove your water grid from your bed. PLEASE do not disconnect it from the water line. It will lift off to one side of the bed being careful not to step on it. If you break it or have an issue let us know.

2. Remove all waste, weeds, grass and large mulch sticks from the garden. The large pieces of mulch will pull nitrogen and poke holes in your plastic so be sure to get them all.

3. Work your soil to a good depth mounding the soil to the center of the bed.

4. Dig a trench along the bed walls saving the dirt you remove in buckets or wheel barrel. (This dirt will go back in the trench on top of the plastic to hold it in place)

5. Replace the water grid; leaving it on and water your bed with the hose thoroughly.

6. Lay plastic on top of your garden bed and seal the edges of the plastic with the soil you saved. The plastic needs to be hole free and as air tight as possible in order for the moist ground to heat up.

7. The plastic needs to stay in place for 30 to 45 days.  At that point you will remove the plastic, move the water grid aside carefully, level soil and add your compost to your bed by working it into the soil 1 to 3 inches deep.
As always reach out to us if you have any questions!

Getting ready for your fall planting starts now… We will be discussing getting your beds ready for fall planting including how to solarize. Solarization is a method of killing not only insect and pest but viruses such as the ones we have encountered with nightshade crops such as our tomatoes this past season. The plastic for solarization will be available at the meeting. A two cubic foot bag of Cotton Burr compost a 2 cubic feet bag is available for each bed. This compost will enhance your nitrogen levels in your garden bed & enrich your soil. We will instruct on how to apply at the meeting. Be sure to attend.

This is one you do not want to miss!

As you all may remember, Gardener and Director; Bernice Jackson applied for a grant with H-E-B back in April.  Well H-E-B accepted the application and was pleased to provide us with assistance and support! Their funds will help us with building 10 more beds and get us through the year.  H-E-B's donation will be helping put healthy food on the table for local citizens.
    For more than 105 years, H-E-B has contributed to worthy causes throughout Texas and Mexico, and they continue to support our community as strongly as ever.  This is a wonderful opportunity for H-E-B to make an impact in our community.
    Thank you H-E-B and Bernice!!

     Here's some information on Aransas County planting schedule and an article on tomato diseases and solarization found by one of our Directors, Joseph Lenertz.  Be sure to check with a Director before pulling up your tomatoes because fertilization, insect, wind, and water problems can look like bacterial & viral disease but can be treated.  Also before solarizing, contact a Director as we can help with weed and Bermuda grass issues at the same time.

• Ways to prevent tomato diseases

Take steps to keep diseases away or reduce their severity.

• Rotate crops

Many bacteria, fungi, and viruses can survive years in the soil. Reduce incidence when you plant tomatoes no more than once every three years in the same spot. Avoid planting other Solanaceous crops (members of the same family as tomatoes, including potato, pepper, and eggplant) in the same area, too – they are susceptible to many of the same diseases as tomatoes.

• Improve soil

Before planting, add a good amount of compost or organic matter to the home garden to improve the soil. Extra nutrients and aeration grow stronger plants which can resist infection.  (ACCG recommends cotton burr compost, available at Adams, Bloomers and other local nurseries).

• Plant disease-resistant tomato varieties

Many hybrid tomato varieties are bred specifically to resist particular diseases. Plant disease-resistant varieties to have the healthiest crop possible. Tomato disease-resistant codes are listed on seed or seedling packets in capital letters. They include:
V = Verticillium Wilt
F = Fusarium Wilt
N = Nematodes
A = Alternaria
T = Tobacco Mosaic Virus
St = Stemphylium (Gray Leaf Spot)
TSWV = Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus

• Don’t under-water or over-water

Keep tomatoes on a regular watering schedule to help them stay healthy and strong. Avoid over-watering which can lead to consistently wet conditions – the perfect environment for many bacteria, fungi, and viruses to multiply.  (ACCG reminds gardeners that hand-watering is not necessary once seeds or transplants are established).

• Destroy infected plants

If you allow infected plants to over-winter in the garden or if you throw them on the compost pile, there’s a good chance disease will spread to other plants or multiply in the soil. Throw away or burn infected plants.

• Solarize the soil

Bacteria, fungi, and viruses can live for several years in the home garden. Treat infected soil to destroy as many of them as possible. One way is to make your own solarizing tarp. The tarp spread out over the selected garden plot collects heat from the summer sun, raising soil temperature high enough to kill disease-spreading organisms. It is most effective when put into place during the hottest part of the summer.
To make and set up a solarizing tarp, first till the selected garden area. Dig a low trench around its circumference. Leave your grid in place and turned on.  Cover the area (over the grid) with a sheet of clear plastic 1-4 mm thick, allowing plastic edges to extend into perimeter trench. Back fill the trench to secure the plastic. Leave the plastic in place for 6-8 weeks.  The sun heats to soil to destroy bacteria and other organisms. Solarizing infected soil can make it usable for the next season’s crop even though it means the selected area cannot be cultivated during the peak of the current summer.

As always thanks to all who were able to come to Saturday's general meeting. Ginger Easton Smith, the County Extension Agent, presented some great information on gardening.  A couple of items she touched on:

• Inoculant for legume crops (peas, beans, and others).  This is an organic product that contains a bacterium which enables these plants to use nitrogen out of the air to make their own fertilizer.  I found some on Amazon.com for about $13.  Search for "Inoculant Organic Pea Lentil Vetch Broad Beans 8 Ounce Package."

    We have a new lock code, please call (361) 463-6932 if you need to get it. The security camera is back in operation so if you have any security concerns, let any of the Directors know and we'll check into it.  We've also added additional items to the fence to enhance security.  If you are going to be in the garden for any length of time, you might consider locking the gate while you are there.  If you leave the gate open, please scramble the combination so that people passing by can't see it.
    Mark Henthorn gets a round of applause for his general help with the garden and the interest he continually shows in making the garden a great experience.
    Judy Sanders, our President, also gets our thanks for delivering to Good Samaritans untold pounds of produce from not only her garden, but from ACCG gardeners who have requested to donate their produce.  If you are unable to harvest, please contact one of the Directors and we will arrange to get it to the charity of your choice.
Please look at our calender for some additional meetings that may be of interest to you.  All of the meetings are at the Texas A&M AgriLife Building at 892 Airport Road here in Rockport.  Call (361) 790-0103 for more information on any of them.

    Thank you all for attending! We took several group pictures and they will be on the web page for all to enjoy soon. 
    Mark of Bed 39 spoke on "How to increase your harvest" by utilizing the square foot gardening method. The gardeners received information on beginning square foot gardening and a handout on companion crops.
    Judy spoke on bulb and multiplying onion harvesting and storage. Bulb onions are ready to be taken out of the soil when the tops start to die and/or fall over. Multiplying onions are to be separated as you use the onion bunches saving a few with a good root attached to be dried for the next planting. Drying or curing of onions needs to be where air flows completely around them. You can utilize either a gunny sack or a net bag that purchased fruit comes in and keep the onions in an open air area that will stay dry; such as a carport or covered patio.
    Richard spoke on how you can stabilize your tomato cages with the white pipe over your beds by crossing the pipe and tying the cages to it & the necessity of keeping the leaves off the ground. He also reminded everyone the necessity of re-mulching our beds to at least one inch depth. This is the best way maintain our moisture availability to our plants. Mulch helps us use less water during our current drought.  He also has Ginger Easton-Smith from the extension office investigating our tomato plants with yellowing leaves.
    We discussed harvesting our tomatoes as they turn pink or just some color showing. You may finish them ripening at home in a window sill or a cool dry location with the stem side down in a cardboard flat. Try to harvest before they turn red on the plant or the birds will eat them and we all work too hard for this to happen!
    *Safety Note* Do not use anything that protrudes from the garden beds. It is best to use a round headed screw or closed cup hook that can be screwed into the upper or inside edge of our beds.
    *Sanitation Note* In order to not transfer diseases and or mold unintentionally don't touch other plants as we walk through the garden. Another way to help is to bag plants being removed immediately.
    A big thanks to Mark and Terri for donating produce to Good Samaritans in ACCG name. Please keep in mind if you have any extra produce Good Samaritans is happy to receive it. If you need help harvesting and getting it to Good Samaritans just call a director for assistance.
    See you all next month!